Alpine Stitch Baby Sleeping Bag: Free Crochet Pattern

I hope you've all had good year-end celebrations and I'm wishing everyone a Happy New Year 2022.

One of my neighbours just had a baby boy so when I learned she was pregnant I decided to crochet a baby sleeping bag for her. I sort of free-handed it while still working on the knitted sweater for my son, as it created a welcome distraction from the sweater's repetitive pattern.

This Crochet Hooded Alpine Baby Sleeping Bag is pretty simple to make and I thought I'd write the pattern while making it so I could share it here 😁.

Crochet Hooded Alpine Baby Sleeping Bag

The yarn I picked is a bulky weight soft acrylic, I wouldn't make this in pure wool as babies' skin can be sensitive to wool, so use soft cotton, acrylic or a mix of both as long as it's soft.

It is an easy crochet pattern as all you need to do is crochet a long rectangle that is then shaped as a hood for the top part and the main sleeping part is folded over. There is no need for button holes as the chosen stitch has large enough gaps to slip the buttons in and out.

Bulky weight is great as this sleeping bag works quickly and will ensure that the baby will be extra cosy in his/her little hooded sleeping bag.

Free Crochet Pattern for the Hooded Alpine Baby Sleeping Bag:

Materials: 

3 balls of James C. Brett Top Value Chunky (100g/150m/163yds per ball) in Blue,

3 balls of James C. Brett Top Value Chunky (100g/150m/163yds per ball) in Beige,

Crochet hook size 6mm (US size K/10.5);

6 large wooden buttons; make sure the buttons you choose are large enough so that they fit securely into the gaps formed by the alpine stitch when closed.

Final dimensions:

40cm (15.5in) width × 66cms (30in) length when finished (folded over).

Gauge:

11 sts x 10 rows in alpine st make a 10cm square.

Abbreviations:

SC: single crochet (double crochet UK);

DC: double crochet (treble crochet UK);

FPTR: treble crochet in the front post (double treble in the front post UK);

Pattern:

(a) Using colour A, ch46;

Row 1: SC in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn (45 sts).

Row 2: ch2, DC in each st across, turn (45 sts).

Row 3: ch1, SC in each DC across (45 sts).

(b) Row 4: ch2, DC in first SC, *FPTR in DC from row below next SC, DC in next SC*, repeat from *to* across, turn (45 sts).

Row 5: ch1, SC in each DC and FPTR across (45 sts).

Row 6: ch2, DC in first SC, *DC in next SC, FPTR in DC from row below next SC*, repeat from *to* across up to the last 2 SC, DC in the last 2 DC, turn (45 sts).

Row 7: ch1, SC in each DC and each FPTR across (45 sts).

Repeat rows 4 to 7 five more times or until your work measures about 23cms from the beginning. This will be the hood.

(c): Using colour B, work rows 4 to 7 twice.

(d): Using colour A, work rows 4 to 7 once.

Repeat (c) and (d) alternatively 5 more times, then repeat (c) once.

Last row: ch1, SC in each DC and FPTR across (45 sts).

Fasten off, weave in loose ends.

Assembling:

Form the hood by folding the top of the hood into 2 halves in order to make a triangle shape and sew or slip stitch both halves together.

Position the buttons: fold the sleeping bag all the way to where the hood finishes (where the baby's shoulders should be) and 3 buttons on each side of the back part, spaced evenly apart; there is no need for buttonholes as the buttons will close into the gaps left by the alpine stitch. 

Congratulations! You have completed your crochet hooded alpine baby sleeping bag! 

You can use this pattern for making your own baby sleeping bags for personal use and selling your own finished products but you cannot give or resell this pattern; If you know anyone who would like this free crochet pattern please give them this link to direct them to Sophie's Knit Stuff's Hooded Alpine Baby Sleeping Bag Free Crochet Pattern.

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My WIPs November 2021

I could be naming this post WIP Wednesday but I am slightly too disorganised to guarantee that I'll be publishing this today (I'm starting to write this on a Wednesday 😅).

At the moment I am working on 2 main projects: the main one being the sweater I'm knitting for my son at his request:

For this sweater I'm using a free knitting pattern I found on Ravelry called Turtle Dove II, but since my son had a specific idea in his head, I'm only using the pattern as a basis, mainly for the construction method.

I really like the ribbed split hem, even though I'm not allowed to use it (as Jack wants the version with the closed rib), but whenever I get time to make myself a sweater, I will add a split hem to it.

The thing I like best about this knitting pattern is that it's all made in one piece, so no sewing apart from weaving in the ends!

I've changed the pattern stitch as the sweater needed to look bulky, and I am also finishing the sleeves differently, adding a gap for the thumbs so that the sleeves can be either folded back or used as fingerless mittens.

Because it's a big project, I was getting bored by it so I also started a crochet project on the side. I can't really say what it is until I give it to the recipient but I'm planning on writing the pattern and sharing it on this blog if anybody's interested 😉. Here's a sneak peak:

What is everyone up to these days? Let me know in your comments or on my Facebook Page 😁.

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Revamped Easy Rolled Brim Hat Knitting Pattern: Free Beanie Hat Knitting Pattern

I've decided to revamp and add more sizes to one of the first knitting patterns I published on Ravelry. The pattern is called Easy Stripes Rolled Brim Beanie Hat as the yarn I used for the original hat pattern was self-striped.

For this pattern I am using Deramore Vintage Chunky yarn which is a solid colour yarn, so let's just call this the Revamped Rolled Brim Hat.

Revamped Easy Rolled Brim Hat

This beanie pattern has been downloaded many times so because of its popularity and also its simplicity, I decided to offer it on my blog for free. If you want to learn how to knit a beanie hat, this is an excellent basic pattern you should start with.

Adding the extra hat sizes and translating the pattern in French was as usual quite a bit of work (all my paid patterns are in English and also in French), so I will be adding a paid version of the Revamped Rolled Brim Hat knitting pattern to Etsy, Ravelry and Lovecrafts once I have the PDF including both languages ready.

The curling nature of the stocking stitch gives this hat a naturally rolled brim that can be rolled up or down, depending on how you prefer wearing it. Because of this, it is necessary to add some extra length to the bottom of the hat; this is taken into account in the following pattern.

Revamped Easy Rolled Brim Hat in 3 sizes

Sizes:

Small size fits a 7 to 12 year-old child head size (47-49 cm around);

Medium size fits a teenager to medium adult head size (52-55 cm around);

Large size fits a large adult head size (56-58 cm around).

Difficulty: Easy once you know how to knit in the round.

Materials:

1 ball of Deramore Vintage Chunky - 50% merino wool, 50% acrylic (100g/153yds/140m per ball);

6mm (US size 10) circular needle, length 60cm;

This yarn is now discontinued but any chunky yarn with a mix of wool/acrylic that matches the gauge below will work.

Scissors,

Tapestry needle large enough for chunky yarn.

Notes: after you start your decreases for the top of the hat, you can switch to double-pointed needles or use the Magic Loop method to avoid stretching your work.

Gauge: 15 stitches and 21 rows make a 10cm square using stocking stitch after blocking.

Abbreviations: 

k = knit,

k2tog = knit 2 stitches together (1 decrease).

Knitting Instructions for the Revamped Rolled Brim Hat:

1 - Small size hat:

Cast on 64 sts and join both ends to start knitting in the round.

Rounds 1 to 30: knit to the end of round (64 sts).

Round 31: *k6, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (56 sts).

Round 32: knit to the end of round (56 sts).

Round 33: *k5, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (48 sts).

Round 34: knit to the end of round (48 sts).

Round 35: *k4, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (40 sts).

Round 36: knit to the end of round (40 sts).

Round 37: *k3, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (32 sts).

Round 38: *k2, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (24 sts).

Round 39: *k1, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (16 sts).

Round 40: *k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (8 sts).

Round 41: *k2tog*, repeat from * to * 4 times (4 sts).

2 - Medium size hat:

Cast on 72 sts and join both ends to start knitting in the round.

Rounds 1 to 34: knit to the end of round (72 sts).

Round 35: *k7, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (64 sts).

Round 36: knit to the end of round (64 sts).

Round 37: *k6, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (56 sts).

Round 38: knit to the end of round (56 sts).

Round 39: *k5, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (48 sts).

Round 40: knit to the end of round (48 sts).

Round 41: *k4, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (40 sts).

Round 42: knit to the end of round (40 sts).

Round 43: *k3, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (32 sts).

Round 44: *k2, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (24 sts).

Round 45: *k1, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (16 sts).

Round 46: *k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (8 sts).

Round 47: *k2tog*, repeat from * to * 4 times (4 sts).

3 - Large size hat:

Cast on 80 sts and join both ends to start knitting in the round.

Rounds 1 to 38: knit to the end of round (80 sts).

Round 39: *k8, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (72 sts).

Round 40: knit to the end of round (72 sts).

Round 41: *k7, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (64 sts).

Round 42: knit to the end of round (64 sts).

Round 43: *k6, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (56 sts).

Round 44: knit to the end of round (56 sts).

Round 45: *k5, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (48 sts).

Round 46: knit to the end of round (48 sts).

Round 47: *k4, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (40 sts).

Round 48: knit to the end of round (40 sts).

Round 49: *k3, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (32 sts).

Round 50: *k2, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (24 sts).

Round 51: *k1, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (16 sts).

Round 52: *k2tog*, repeat from * to * 8 times (8 sts).

Round 53: *k2tog*, repeat from * to * 4 times (4 sts).

Finishing:

Cut the yarn, leaving a 20cm tail.

Keeping those 4 stitches on your needle(s), insert the yarn tail into a large tapestry needle and weave the tail into these 4 stitches. Remove the knitting needle(s) and pull the yarn tight to close the hope at the top of the hat. Weave in any remaining yarn tails.

Wash gently in warm soapy water, roll in a clean dry towel and block your newly finished hand knit hat if you wish.

Knit the Revamped Easy Rolled Brim Hat for a quick handmade gift this season 

I hope you enjoy knitting this simple hat and since the Holiday Season is approaching, why not make a few of these easy to knit beanies to use as handmade gifts? 

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Wriggles Hooded Cowl Knitting Pattern

As I was going about my day trying to put in a few rows of sock knitting before heading to work this morning, I realised I hadn't written a blog post yet about my recently published Wriggles Hooded Cowl knitting pattern. 

This was originally supposed to be a shawl but I struggled a bit with the shawl design as you can see here. Luckily I managed to convert the design I had in mind into a cowl to which I added a hood, and I think it works quite well:

Wriggles Hooded Cowl

As you can see it's got wriggles that look like cables which are actually NOT made using a cable needle: it's an easy way to create the illusion of cables for knitters who might be uncomfortable with using cable needles.

The Wriggles hooded cowl knitting pattern is available from Etsy, Ravelry and Lovecrafts in English and French languages and now is the time to make some for yourself and to give as gifts for you know when 😉.

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Up Mayo! Crochet Headband Free Pattern

I'm not a huge GAA fan but when there's an opportunity to crochet, then why not?

If you live in or come from Ireland, then you'll already know that each year, there is a Gaelic Football competition that includes every Irish county (from both Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland), called the All-Ireland championship, and the winning team goes home with the Sam McGuire Cup.

This year's final takes place this Saturday and this year it is a particularly big event, as the Dublin team (who previously won the cup for 6 years in a row) were beaten by the Mayo team in the semi-final a few weeks ago, meaning that Mayo could be the winners for the first time in 70 years (yes 70, you read me right, it's all got to do with a curse which I won't go into, but you can read all about here).

So my partner being from the beautiful county of Mayo (not as beautiful as Galway though😉), this year we are all very excited about this All-Ireland GAA final, which is why I made this crochet Headband in the Mayo county flag colours: red and green.

Me "sporting" my Up Mayo! Headband

I'm sharing this here for free so you can use it to make your own headbands in your own county colours. Just not the Dublin colours, nor Tyrone (Ha Ha, just kidding😉).

My head is practically child-sized, so this would probably fit anyone over 12 years old, up to women with a small to medium head (I would make it bigger for a man or a woman with a bigger head size).

Materials needed:

50gr Dk yarn, red colour,

50gr Dk yarn, green colour.

I used 100% acrylic yarn as this is what was in my stash but you can use whatever yarn you want, you may have to adjust the number of stitches if your yarn is less or more dense than mine or if you need a smaller or larger headband.

3.5 mm crochet hook (E4 in US sizes),

Tapestry needle,

Scissors.

Abbreviations:

Ch: chain;

Sl: slip stitch;

FHDC: foundation half double crochet US (foundation half treble crochet UK):

To make a row of FHDC, start with ch2, yarn over and insert your hook into the first chain stitch made, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull up the 3 loops on the hook (1st FHDC made).

To make subsequent FHDCs, yarn over, insert your hook in the previous FHDC (it should look like a V), pull up a loop, yarn over and pull up the 3 loops on your hook.

HDC: half double crochet US (half treble crochet UK);

To make a HDC, yarn over, insert your hook in the next stitch, yarn over and pull up the 3 loops on your hook.

HHDC: Herringbone double crochet US (Herringbone treble crochet UK);

To make a HHDC, yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up the first 2 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull up the remaining 2 stitches on your hook.    

Additional information:

1-In order to have smooth colour changes at the end of the colour changing rows, I decided to turn and work in rows from the end of row 2 instead of working in the round. 

2-The ch2 at the beginning of the rows do not count as stitches, the first stitch of each row is made into the same stitch as the base of ch2.

3-The slip stitch to join each row is made into the first hdc or hhdc of the previous row.

4- I haven't made a swatch (Gasp!) but still got it right first time: my tip is not to make the foundation row too tight (you can try using a larger hook for this row, and to measure as you go: once your foundation row fits around your head when reasonably stretched out (don't go overboard with stretching out, think of how it will be stretched when worn), then you have enough foundation stitches.

Instructions for the Up Mayo Headband:

Row 1: Using red yarn, make 70 FHDC, sl into the first foundation stitch to join,  making a closed circle, taking care not to twist your stitches.

Row 2: ch2, HHDC in each stitch around, sl into the first FHDC to join, turn.

Row 3: ch2, HDC in each stitch around, sl into the first HHDC from previous row to join, turn.

Change to green yarn.

Row 4: ch2, HHDC in each stitch around, sl into the first HDC from previous row to join, turn.

Row 5: ch2, HDC in each stitch around, sl into the first HHDC from previous row to join, turn.

Row 6: ch2, HHDC in each stitch around, sl into the first HDC from previous row to join, turn.

Row 7: ch2, HDC in each stitch around, sl into the first HHDC from previous row to join, turn.

Change to red yarn.

Row 8: ch2, HHDC in each stitch around, sl into the first hdc from previous row to join, turn.

Row 9: ch2, HDC in each stitch around, sl into the first HHDC from previous row to join, turn.

Row 10: ch2, HHDC in each stitch around, sl into the first HDC from previous row to join, turn.

Voilà! You can now support your favourite team in Sophie's Knit Stuff style and I can go back to knitting my socks off!

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Besides Knitting

While I'm slowly working on publishing my new knitting pattern,I thought I might share some other things going on in my life, just so you know I am a human being and not completely obsessed with knitting (even though that remains to be proved😉)

I've been know to do a bit of baking: I don't particularly enjoy baking, it's mostly the eating part I love. I made my first slow-cooker banana cake recently: slow cooked cakes are the best, very difficult to burn 😂.

My yummy banana cake

Speaking of baking, I managed to grow a healthy enough blueberry bush in my backyard and since I'm the only one who seems to want to eat them, I froze the few blueberries I picked so far this season and planning to make a batch of either blueberry muffins or blueberry tartlets (my mum made some once when I was a kid and they were delicious!).

As for gardening, I wouldn't call myself a keen gardener but I enjoy having pretty plants and edible things in my garden (the less maintenance the better). Here's a pretty picture of my hydrangea now in full bloom, it's not as pretty when the flowers die off:

Close -up of my beautiful hydrangea

But what I really love doing is knitting so I thought I'd share a sneak peak of my new hooded cowl:

Wriggles Hooded Cowl fresh off the blocking mat

I just couldn't help myself, could I?

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I Failed... But Not Giving Up

Today I'm sharing my latest knitting fail with you.

You see I had this grand idea of a new shawl design using a method I hadn't seen anywhere before, so I thought this could be my Million Dollar idea as well as my contribution to the Knitting World, I thought I had at last found the reason why I had been put onto this Earth... 

Well my search will go on for a little bit longer as I now know why nobody out there was using that great new-found knitting technique: it's because IT DOES NOT WORK!!!

This was going to look great

I was trying to make a triangle with increases made from the middle instead of the sides but as the shawl grew, it got increasingly curvy because the middle grew faster than the sides:

Excuse the poor drawing skills!

I was going to fix it later using short rows but then the sides started growing straight and if I kept going, my triangle would have become a very wonky triangle at the bottom with straight sides at the top:

I had to admit my failure and undo about 2 weeks worth of knitting.

I did get a new idea slowly crop into my head when I started to see that design wasn't going to work.

This might not work either but I'll try it anyway... How else am I going to find out?

My Million Dollar idea is still out there somewhere, I just know it 😂.